The West Highland Way

Day 5 (Crianlarich to Bridge of Orchy, 12 miles)

Note: Before departing from Inverarnan, those walking the West Highland Way are advised to inquire about the status of the forestry track near Crianlarich. If improvements have not yet been made, it is far preferable to take the A82 from Glen Falloch (after crossing the railway tracks) both into, and later away from, Crianlarich as the current conditions of the forestry roads are very bad.

There were patches of blue sky this morning, and after a leisurely breakfast we set off at 9:45 into more hopeful weather than expected. Because the track conditions into Crianlarich had been so abysmal yesterday, we chose to walk the first two miles this morning on the A82 and then rejoin the West Highland Way where it meets the road rather than retrace our steps in order to walk the exact route. This likely saved us an hour's hard walking. As a result we made good time into Tyndrum and had time to rest at the Green Welly Stop and get provisions for a picnic lunch. The Green Welly Stop houses a restaurant, takeaway sandwich and snack bar, outdoor shop, whiskey shop, gift shop, and more! Two of us went into their outdoor shop hoping to find Compeed (the world's best blister treatment), and nearly collapsed in laughter when, on entering the shop and barely looking round, the clerk asked, "Blister kits?" Clearly this is the hottest selling item at the shop! (The West Highland Way is, in fact, notorious for causing foot problems due to the hard surfaces nearly throughout the walk.)

To take advantage of the sunshine we opted to keep walking north of Tyndrum, and found a quiet spot on the flank of Beinn Odhar to enjoy our picnic. It just started to sprinkle as we finished lunch (fortunately after we had eaten the last of the wonderful whiskey cake, carried all the way from Glengoyne!), so we quickly put on our waterproofs and set off again. We reached the Bridge of Orchy quickly, because the walk there is entirely on an old (18th c.) military road. One definitely notes the more impressive fells in this part of the highlands, with Beinn Dorain dominating the view into the Bridge of Orchy. There is little here besides the very welcoming Bridge of Orchy Hotel, our overnight stop. The hotel's rooms are spacious and well appointed (though we advise those booking to request a room as far away from the bar as possible), and the kitchen produces imaginative and delicious evening meals. The hotel also boasts an outstanding selection of single malts as well as draft beers. A particular highlight was tasting the Springbank 21 year whiskey at the suggestion of the the landlord; it was truly memorable!


Crossing the River Fillan, north of Crianlarich


View near Dal Righ (King's Field), where Robert the Bruce was
defeated by the MacDougalls in 1306


A lochan near Dal Righ


Beginning to enter the higher hills as we approach Tyndrum


Let's see ... which way do we go?


The 18th century military road, with a good view to Beinn Odhar


In search of a picnic lunch spot ...


... and we found it (and stayed dry!)


Views across Gleann Ach'-innis Chailein


Our presence did not trouble this docile Highland creature!


Imposing Beinn Dorain


The bridge at Bridge of Orchy, built c.1750


The Bridge of Orchy Hotel (accommodation, food & drink are excellent)

On to day six

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