We awoke to much more promising weather than we expected from last night's forecast, and experienced only a few sprinkles all day. It was hard to leave the lovely views and peaceful atmosphere of Inversnaid Lodge, but we pulled ourselves away by 9:15. The lochside path north of Inversnaid is very rough going, as it is narrow and full of slippery rocks, tree roots, and burns that rush across the path. Fortunately we had expected this, and benefitted from our imaginations conjuring up worse conditions than we actually encountered. The views over Loch Lomond were magical, and the calm conditions left the lake surface like a mirror. The Way involved a long gradual uphill climb before descending (via a short diversion) into Inverarnan. Though our intention was to have lunch at the Stagger Inn, we found it deserted of customers and were not greeted in a manner that suggested we'd be welcomed with open arms! We were, instead, strongly urged to lunch across the road at the Drover's Inn. Despite many references to the Drover's as "charming" or (more appropriately) "atmospheric," we had been warned that it is in fact rather dreadful. The building is very run down (there is old, and then there is OLD) and filled with moth-eaten stuffed animals and young men running around in kilts ... but with army boots and t-shirts! The passable sandwiches took the edge off our hunger, but we all let loose a sigh of relief that we were not booked in overnight!

After rejoining the path we had a few miles of easier terrain, including lovely views and waterfalls in Glen Falloch. However, after crossing the railway track we soon hit was seemed an endless muddy and rocky slog along an old military road. Huge bags of gravel lined the road, but until they have been laid the conditions are likely to remain quite bad. By the time we finally branched off on a forestry track to reach Crianlarich, we were all exhausted. Rather than walk the half mile to our B&B (Riverside Guest House) only to retrace our steps back to the town's only pub, we decided to head straight for an early dinner at the Rod & Reel. Some wisely chose the haddock, while others VERY UNWISELY chose the vegetarian lasagne; suffice it to say this bore no relation to actual food, and was not edible! The service was very poor as well, so we were grateful to return to our guest house for tea and biscuits. Sandy, the owner, pointed out the games available to guests; we were too busy treating blisters and nursing stiff legs to entertain a round of Scrabble! The day's walk seemed far longer than 13 miles, and we all welcome an easier day tomorrow.

Falls near Inversnaid Lodge

The first few miles north of Inversnaid are rough going

View south over Loch Lomond

Some tight squeezes to negotiate!

Hawthorn ("May Flower") in bloom

Loch view from our morning rest stop

Another view of the loch from the path

Bothy near the ferry to Ardlui

Panorama over Loch Lomond

Higher fells come into view as we approach Inverarnan

Heading into Inverarnan, by the River Falloch

Riverside path in Glen Falloch

Impressive horns! No wonder he's posing for a photograph

Falls of Falloch (two views)

On to day five

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