The Reivers Way is something special in this age of innumerable “footpath holidays”—a long distance walk the length of which one encounters few people, little traffic, and no waymarking. It is a walk for the connoisseur who is willing to navigate solely by map and compass (and now GPS) and experience the satisfaction of completing a route very few others contemplate. The Reivers Way is a walk of great contrasts, from rolling farmland to riverside paths in mature mixed woodland, from the wide open spaces of the Cheviot Hills to the expansive seashore along Northumberland’s “Heritage” coastline. In place of the sight and sounds of other walkers, those on the Reivers Way instead keep company with curlew, grouse, swallows, lapwings, cuckoo, cows (and the occasional bull) and sheep. (Unfortunately, the sudden roar of RAF jets overhead is in startling contrast to the sounds of nature!)

The Reivers Way was originally devised by H.O. Wade, with the route further developed by Ken Coulson. Today, the walker’s only source is a slim but information packed guidebook by James Roberts (published by Cicerone Press in its original 1993 edition). Mr. Roberts advanced the route considerably by avoiding potential violations of public rights of way, and made other improvements to Wade’s and Coulson’s original routing. The Reivers Way offers the walker a unique view of the magical county of Northumberland, rich in historical and natural interest. The route takes the walker through attractive towns and villages, past Roman settlements (including the outstanding section of Hadrian’s Wall and accompanying museum at Housesteads), into friendly country pubs, and through spectacular stretches of countryside including the Cheviots and the northeast coast. Interesting diversions abound, including Chillingham Castle, boat trips to the Farne Islands and Lindisfarne Priory, the impressive Bamburgh Castle, Roman ruins, and ancient churches.

The Reivers Way begins in Corbridge and follows a roughly circular and winding route northward, then turns eastward through the Cheviot Hills until reaching the North Sea at Bamburgh. The final day follows the coastline south to Alnmouth.

As James Roberts notes in his excellent and still accurate guide, the name “Reivers Way” was chosen to commemorate the raiders on both sides of the border between England and Scotland for whom the region is (in)famous. Notable features in this region, such as peel towers, originated as a result of border “reiving” (raiding or thieving perpetrated by families of all social classes). Tales of the Border Reivers, published by Sandhill Press, provides an excellent overview of the region, and informs the reader that “disorder and unrest had prevailed from earliest times” in the border region, although Edward I’s efforts to rule Scotland were “the turning point in the battle for control of the Border country.” Several centuries of border warfare followed, and men “who had been encouraged to rob, kill and steal were not now inclined” to adopt the more peaceful agrarian existence promoted by Henry VIII. Family names such as Armstrong, Scott, Dixon, Graham, Elliot, Henderson, Maxwell, Watson, and Wilson are all associated with border ancestors. This disputed region saw the establishment beginning in 1248 of unique “Border Laws,” violation of some of which were punishable by death, although the laws were difficult to enforce. The succession of James VI of Scotland to James I of a United Kingdom signaled the end of the border Reivers.

We chose to break our days on the Reivers Way in approximately the same fashion as Roberts did in his guidebook, the exception being diversions on days three and four as recommended by another walker to avoid some of the most difficult and laborious walking en route to Wark. Instead, we followed the Pennine Way from Housesteads to Bellingham, and then used public rights of way (questionable in some instances!) past West and East Woodburn to Elsdon. We also scheduled a rest day in Seahouses to allow for a boat trip to the Farne Islands, breeding ground for many of Britain’s seabirds—including the comical Puffin.

There is no central source of information about accommodation along the Reivers Way, and many of the listings in Robert’s guidebook are now outdated. We used the internet to search for B&B accommodation in the towns we planned to stay, and were delighted with excellent quality accommodation throughout our walk. Tourist Information Centres throughout Northumberland are also good sources of information on accommodation, as is the Visit Northumbria website. Walkers are advised to book their accommodation well in advance, since several stopping points along the way have very limited choice (for example, Uswayford Farm is the only accommodation between Alwinton and Wooler!). It is also possible to camp along the way, although we are unable to offer details on finding approved campsites.

There is also no organized baggage transport along the Reivers Way. However, those wishing to carry only daypacks will be pleased to learn that most B&B proprietors will, for a modest fee, transport your bags to the next destination. (The exception is remote Uswayford Farm. We carried overnight gear for this day, and had our luggage transported from Rothbury to Wooler.)

With regard to navigation, the entire route is now available on five Ordnance Survey maps (all in the “Explorer” series, at a 1:25,000 scale): in order of use, the maps are OL43, OL42, OL16, 340, and 332. Using James Roberts’ guidebook narrative, we transferred the route onto our maps using a highlighter and did not refer to the narrative while walking (only as a reference and to read about points of interest before setting out on each day’s walk). It is essential to read the maps carefully throughout the walk, and to take regular compass bearings. Often there is no sign of a footpath on the ground, and one must rely on the map for navigation (and the compass at key decision points). Even with good maps, apparent rights of way through farm fields and across moorland can be nonexistent or, at best, very difficult to follow, requiring frequent stops to check one's position. We also believe a GPS is essential. Minimally, the GPS provides a check on one’s position; on several occasions, having the GPS grid reference prevented or helped us correct what might have been costly mistakes on already long and arduous days, especially across the Cheviot Hills where footpaths are often nonexistent and the terrain is rough with few clear landmarks to aid navigation.

To view a diary and photographs of our walk, click on each day of the journey below. (To view our diaries of other long distance routes in Britain, visit our home page.)

Day 1 (in Corbridge, before start of walk)
Day 2 (Corbridge to Allendale, 17.5 miles)
Day 3 (Allendale to Bardon Mill, 9.25 miles)
Day 4 (Bardon Mill to Low Stead, 11 miles)
Day 5 (Low Stead to Elsdon, 15.5 miles)
Day 6 (Elsdon to Rothbury, 13.75 miles)
Day 7 (Rothbury to Uswayford, 17 miles)
Day 8 (Uswayford to Wooler, 17.5 miles)
Day 9 (Wooler to Bamburgh, 17 miles)
Day 10 (Bamburgh to Seahouses, 3 miles, and Farne Islands)
Day 11 (Seahouses to Alnmouth, 17.5 miles)

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