Day 6 (Elsdon to Rothbury, 13.75 miles)
For some reason it took us forever to get going today—maybe because we were so comfortable! We finally left Townfoot Cottage at 10:00 and made good time until reaching the interminable expanse of Harwood Forest, seven miles of bog along a narrow track through the dreary plantation pines that made for slow, arduous walking over clumps of discampsia grass and heather. Emerging from Harwood Forest to pass Selby’s Cove, and then climb Simonside, was a tremendous relief, and the views from Simonside were outstanding. We had experienced drizzly rain on and off earlier in the day, but were fortunate to have glorious sunshine atop Simonside—not to mention perfect visibility. It seemed to take forever to reach Rothbury; we saw it from miles away, but had to descend a switchback path from Simonside to join a bridleway running below the hill’s flank. We finally arrived at our destination, the welcoming Newcastle Arms, just after 5:00. Fantasies of tea and scones at a tea room in Rothbury had long vanished since we arrived late, so we went straight into the Newcastle’s bar for pints of Old Speckled Hen. The hotel also served good evening meals.
Townfoot Cottage
Elsdon's huge village green
A small figure of Bacchus adorns
a cottage doorway
A closer view of St. Cuthbert's
Church, on the green
Landshott Farm
A brief clearing in the endless
expanse of Harwood Forest
The remains of Manside Cross
Heather covered moorland south
of Simonside
Selby's Cove
A view from our ascent of Simonside
Panorama to the north from
the top of Simonside (click on image for larger version)
The view farther on, from Dove
Crag
The bridge into Rothbury over
the River Coquet
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