The weather forecast last evening had been promising for today, but we began our walk under heavy cloud and strong winds. It began to rain as we neared “Shitlington Crags,” and we experienced showers on and off throughout the day—especially as we left Bellingham. This was an attractive and very traditional small town of gray stone buildings, which had not been spoiled by “modernization” and included bakers and other shops to serve residents, not tourists. We had chosen to follow a footpath directly east of Bellingham to Rede Bridge, though this was hard to follow in the heavy downpour that chose to hit precisely as we left the town! Though it was not easy to follow the field boundaries and footpath shown on the map, we did join up with the Border Country Ride to Rede Bridge, a lovely old stone bridge across the River Rede. From here we followed a disused railway track, not marked as a public right of way on the map and which involved climbing several fences. (This points to a challenge facing Reivers Way walkers: although there is no law of trespass without “willful damage” in the UK, this does not prevent a walker from encountering numerous natural hazards and possibly angry landowners.) As we approached one gate, we were met by a group of grazing cows and calves with a large bull in their midst. Rather than risk his wrath, we chose this spot to sit in the emerging sunshine and enjoy a picnic lunch along the grassy bank. The cows and bull began to ramble off down the track, and by the time we finished lunch and crossed the gate, there was no sign of them!

The disused rail track that had been elevated and provided relatively easy walking became a cutting at Cragg Farm, with the surface correspondingly wet and overgrown, so we diverted up to a footpath at GR 885854 that took us around the farm and all the way to West Woodburn. The route from here to East Woodburn passed many attractive houses and an old church along the River Rede, and then ascended through a plantation forest to reach Wether Hill. Fortunately the brief rain shower had passed, and we were treated to spectacular views from the hilltop. It was mostly downhill from here across Raylees Common, first along a footpath, then joining a lane into Elsdon. A huge black storm cloud was advancing from the west, and we knew we could not beat it so we donned raingear again. A brief bit of sunshine before the downpour resulted in a stunning rainbow as we neared Elsdon, a worthy reward for putting up with the rain! Our B&B, Townfoot Cottage, was truly a luxury; it is a lovely self-catering cottage let as bed and breakfast when the owners do not have a week’s booking. The friendly and helpful owner, Carole Morpeth, made us tea before returning with a wonderful meal served in our own dining room. After dinner, we took full advantage of the spacious lounge to watch a video about the Border Reivers thoughtfully provided by our hosts!

Leaving Low Stead (with regret) on an overcast, windy morning

We continued our alternative routing via the Pennine Way

Ealinghamrigg Common, south of Bellingham

The attractive town of Bellingham

East of Bellingham, approaching the River Rede

Rede Bridge

View from the bridge

We followed a disused railway line for several miles

Two views near Cragg Farm

Approaching the small town of West Woodburn...

...and on to East Woodburn, past the village church

The hamlet of East Woodburn

A break for afternoon tea near Wether Hill

Panorama from Wether Hill on Raylees Common (click on image for larger version)

Views as we near Elsdon, with rainbow

A serious storm approached from the west (we didn't avoid it!)

Countryside surrounding Eldson

on to Day 6
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