Despite high hopes for a clear day to enjoy the views from Hadrian’s Wall, we awoke to a misty rain. Given that we had a second relatively easy day’s walk, we lingered over breakfast but finally faced the inevitable, donned waterproofs, and began walking around 9:30. Although it was raining and mist was hugging the hilltops, visibility was still fairly good and posed no navigational problems throughout the day. On reaching Housesteads, one of the best-preserved sites along the length of Hadrian’s Wall, we took time to tour the small but excellent museum of Roman Army life and settlement at the fort. On the advice of an earlier Reivers Way walker, we had decided to vary from Roberts’ route north of Housesteads and keep to the Pennine Way rather than struggle through featureless moorland to Wark. This had the distinct benefit of providing accommodation at Low Stead, a very old fortified farmhouse that has been lovingly restored by its present owners, David and Sally Peel. By the time we were near to Low Stead, the sunshine had broken through the cloud and Sally greeted us with the words every tired walker longs to hear: “I’ll put the kettle on!” Not only were we treated to a fresh pot of tea, but also to delicious ginger shortbread, all while enjoying glorious sunshine in Sally’s garden. Though our day could happily have ended with this, we were in for further treats as Sally cooked us a superb evening meal. Helen’s friend Jo, who walked with us the next two days, joined us at dinner.

North of Bardon Mill, crossing Thorngrafton Common

Another view of the common

Part of the remains at Housesteads Roman Fort

Housesteads is well worth exploring, especially the museum

Hadrian's Wall from Housesteads, looking east

Another view of the wall, in heavy mist

Hadrian's Wall, looking west

We joined the Pennine Way to cross Ridley Common

Another view of Ridley Common, in heavy mist

Haughton Common (with rain drops on the lens!)

A clearing in Wark Forest

Near Broadpool Common, on the Pennine Way

Wark's Burn

Approaching Low Stead Farm...

...where we were greeted with tea and shortbread, in sunshine!

on to Day 5
back to Day 3
return to Introduction

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