It was hard to leave the comfort of the Goodbarn’s lovely B&B, especially after being treated to waffles for breakfast! However, once we reached Beadnell Bay the walk was truly lovely, with wide expanses of golden sand backed by unspoiled grass covered dunes. We mostly kept to the beaches and enjoyed such beauty spots as Embleton Bay, with its stunning view of the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle in the background. It was amazing to find these lovely beaches nearly deserted, especially given that it was a bank holiday week. Northumberland truly is “undiscovered,” and we hope it stays that way!

We stopped at the Jolly Fisherman in Craster for lunch, since James Roberts’ guide says it is a “must” to sample their local crab and smoked kippers (both highly recommended). The sun was shining, and we enjoyed our lunch in the pub’s garden overlooking the sea. From Craster the walk becomes somewhat less attractive and interesting, turning to lower lying paths around caravans and rundown beach huts. (As Roberts notes, the only real reason for ending the route in Alnmouth was its proximity to a rail station. One could conceivably choose to finish in Craster, justly celebrating over kipper pate and crab sandwiches with a pint of the local beer!) Unfortunately the beach route past Boulmer was inaccessible due to high tide, while the cliff top footpath was signposted “closed due to erosion.” An alternative quiet road took us from Boulmer all the way to the railway station outside Alnmouth, and the only disappointment was not passing through Alnmouth…and hopefully finding a proper tea room or coffee shop in which to celebrate our accomplishment! The dregs of tea from our thermoses, along with a sequestered ginger cake in our daypack, tasted equally good, and despite our tiredness, nothing could detract from our sense of great accomplishment at having finished the little known Reivers Way!

(Many thanks to Dave Cookson for bringing the walk to our attention. We hope our diary doesn’t attract too many more walkers and spoil your well kept secret!)

After an initial few miles on the road, we reach Beadnell Bay

The beach was gorgeous...and deserted!

High Newton-by-the-Sea

Wildflower meadow near Low Newton

Approaching Low Newton-by-the-Sea

The Ship Inn at Low Newton

Beach chalets on Embleton Bay

The lovely expanse of Embleton Bay

Another view of the bay, from farther south

Ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle

We leave the ruins behind as we continue to Craster

Arriving in Craster, home of the famous Craster kippers!

Headlands south of Craster, as a light rain begins

Cullernose Point

Howick Haven

Crab traps in Boulmer

Final views from the road to Lesbury (and Alnmouth Station)

Alnmouth, from Lesbury

Finished, and in good spirits! (with Alnmouth behind us)

back to Day 10
return to Introduction

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