The guidebook scale was misleading, and last night we realized we had miscalculated the mileage for our last two days; today is a mere three miles, rather than the expected five, which means that tomorrow is even longer than anticipated (requiring an earlier start so as not to miss our train to Edinburgh from Alnmouth). The entire short walk from Bamburgh to Seahouses was along a gorgeous stretch of Northumberland’s coast, with plenty of rock pools to explore along the way. We stopped at our welcoming B&B, Rocklyn, to drop off a few things from our daypacks before walking around Seahouses and taking a boat trip to the Farne Islands. An unexpected treat followed our discovery of an espresso machine in the village bakery: our first cappuccino in more than a week!

After some leisurely window shopping, we bought sandwiches to eat along the seashore, and then boarded the “Glad Tidings” (with Billy Shiels’ company) for their three hour cruise around the Farne Islands, including a landing on Inner Farne. The island is one of Britain’s most important nature reserves and bird sanctuaries, now managed by the National Trust. We were amused as the boat docked to see several people pulling out umbrellas, thinking they shouldn’t be so skeptical that our good weather would end. They say ignorance is bliss, but in this case it was anything but; anyone lacking an umbrella faced a Hitchcock-like “run of the gauntlet” as dozens of Terns nesting in the grass directly adjacent to the path dove at our heads to defend their eggs! Visitors are strictly limited to a designated path that covers only a fraction of the island, but we soon left the defensive Terns behind and were treated to the sights and sounds of thousands of nesting sea birds, including the charming Puffins. The bird population includes Oystercatchers, Razorbills, several species of gull, Cormorants, and Shags—a total of 15 species breed on the islands. It was a wonderful experience to see them so close.

After the boat returned to Seahouses, we went into the atmospheric Olde Ship Hotel for drinks, then to the Pinnacles Restaurant for some excellent fish and chips (we recommend the Haddock highly!) that we took away to enjoy from the vantage of a picnic bench overlooking the harbor. It was a lovely evening, capped by a spectacular sunset behind Bamburgh Castle that we viewed right from out B&B window.

Bamburgh Castle from the beach

With the tide out, the beach to Seahouses was wide (and deserted)

Enjoying the tranquility...and the prospect of a short day!

Several shots of the rocky beach to Seahouses

One of the northernmost islands in the Farnes

Our first views of the islands, from the boat

Seals lounging in the sunshine

These seemingly placid Terns would soon show a darker side...

...as they did their best to scare us off Inner Farne!

Terns nest right beside the path where visitors disembark

Oystercatchers

A lone Puffin

Puffins, Puffins everywhere!

Razorbill, with Gulls

Shag

The Olde Ship and Pinnacles Restaurant, near Seahouses Harbor

Sunset behind Bamburgh Castle, from our B&B window

A final glimpse of the sunset

on to Day 11
back to Day 9
return to Introduction

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